Last week we featured President Harry S. Truman.  So today, in the spirit of bi-partisanship and Memorial Day, the Friday Style Icon is President Ronald Reagan.

No matter what your politics are, it’s pretty clear that Reagan was darned good at looking good.

This can be explained partially from his previous career as Hollywood actor during a period when dressing well was expected.  He was also surrounded by many, many great style exemplars:  Astaire, Grant, Bogart, Cooper, Fairbanks Jr.  Here’s a photo of Reagan, Cary Grant, and Douglas Fairbanks, Jr. at the White House.  A pretty distinguished looking group if you ask me.

Reagan had most of his suits tailored by Frank Mariani of Beverly Hills.  In a 1998 interview, Mariani told the L.A. Business Journal that Reagan “never changed with all the fads. He likes the California look, a loose cut and not too much shape.”

Reagan’s suits were two-button with a wider shoulder and a bit slimmer waist giving a look of vigorousness to his frame.  In the 80’s when he was president, his values and easygoing attitude evoked a sense of homespun yesterday about him, like he was from another age: and indeed he was, to include the cut of his suits.

In most of his photos, he always showed some cuff, upon which were installed cuff links, and a white pocket square folded in a small puff.  He knotted his tie in a conservative double Windsor and while working in the Oval Office he never removed his jacket at his desk, a reflection of his respect for the office.

Reagan is also credited with a bit of a revival of the brown suit while he was in office.  This was a break from previous presidents (Truman excepted) who settled on conservative greys and dark blues.  The photo against the White House column is particularly dashing.

One particular suit also caused quite a stir overseas and that was the navy glen plaid number he wore in Europe in the run up to arms talks with the Soviets.  The glen plaid fabric was manufactured by Illingworth, Morris & Co. Ltd., which also furnished the interiors of Rolls Royce autos, the Pope’s vestments and the covers for the tennis balls used at Wimbledon.  Here he is walking with Margaret Thatcher wearing the suit…nice.

The story goes that White House Aide Morgan Mason (son of Actor James Mason),who was once executive director of Illingworth, had some fabric swatches send over at the request of Nancy Reagan.  One of those swatches was that glen plaid.  Frank Mariani duly made up the glen plaid to Reagan’s standard spec at a reputed price of $1200 equivalent to about $3600 today.

Reagan is also credited with bring back a sense of elegance back to the White House after the Carter years.  It’s hard to argue with this, especially given the influence of Nancy Reagan in this regard.  He began the trend with his first inauguration in morning dress.

But Reagan turned out equally well in black tie or white tie.

Lest we forget, Reagan loved America, so we end with a photo of him impeccably dressed in front of the American flag.

Ronald Reagan, a very worth Friday Style Icon and a true patriot.

By Joe Scherrer | Tailored and Styled Writer

Article publié pour la première fois le 25/05/2013