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Why Men’s Style History Matters to You

Slim Fit Mix 'N Match

I don’t know about you, but it’s easy to get confused about what to wear especially given the high velocity of fashion change in our times.  Style has become so democratized that it’s difficult for the aspiring professional to find enduring reference points for dressing well.

Whereas in the past, you knew what to wear in an aesthetically pleasing way for a given event, for work, and for play, that is no longer no longer true today.  Everything related to so-called “rules for dressing” has been deconstructed, scrambled, mixed up, and even distorted beyond recognition.

Thom Brown Mint Green "Munsters" Suit

Thom Brown Mint Green Plaid “Munsters” Suit

And it doesn’t help that change is engineered into the fashion system itself which—if you buy into it—also drives your wardrobe costs up.

So, what’s a guy to do?

The point of this blog is to help you develop your own “philosophy of style” using classic principles.  Part and parcel of this approach involves taking a stand against relentless fashion change.   Indeed, there is some irony in that classic men’s style, by virtue of its enduring nature, is now a statement of fashion rebellion.  But just the opposite was the case up until the 1960’s.

In effect, we’re saying, “I dress with classic taste, and here’s why.”

Cary Grant Mid-Grey 3-Button Prince of Wales Suit

Cary Grant’s grey 3-button suit
used in North by Northwest

Fortunately, it’s possible to trace a distinct continuity of men’s style that goes back several hundred years.  From a clothing standpoint, this continuity is embodied in the suit.  From a grooming standpoint, it’s short hair and a clean shaven face.  From a physical standpoint it’s being fit.  And most importantly, from a moral standpoint it’s being a man of strong character virtues.

Now I don’t mean to say that classic men’s style has remained absolutely unchanged over those years (it hasn’t), but I do say that the foundation of classic men’s style remains intact, even if it has been buffeted by the vagaries of fashion, taste, and relativism.

In the upcoming series of posts, I’ll take you on a short walk through history to discover that continuity of men’s classic dressing and see if we can draw out any enduring lessons to apply to our philosophy of style.

And during that walk, here’s the question I want you to ask yourself:

Do YOU stand for classic style?

By Joe Scherrer | Tailored and Styled Writer

Article publié pour la première fois le 23/02/2013

Paul Stuart’s Phineas Cole Line: Doing it Up Right | Permanent Style

See on Scoop.itTailored and Styled

“One of the greatest pleasures of going to New York is visiting Paul Stuart. It might be the only great men’s store left in the world. It is not a chain (five stores doesn’t count); it only sells its own clothing; and its scale makes it definitively a store, not a shop”

Joseph Scherrer‘s insight:

Like Simon Crompton, I am very partial to Paul Stuart as well as the Phineas Cole brand.  The style is quintessentially American with just the right touches of British influence.

The patterns and colors of Paul Stuart suits and jackets are distinct, yet classic and shoes, belts, ties, pocket squares, and shirts are all designed to produce sensational looks.

The quality is consistently off the charts too.

As far as the Phineas Cole line goes, designer Ralph Auriemma is going with much heavier fabrics:  old school 18oz and 20oz fabrics.  Color, pattern, and cut figure strongly as well.

I’m glad the Japanese company that purchased Paul Stuart is staying true to the American roots of this iconic brand.

By Joe Scherrer | Tailored and Styled Writer

See on www.permanentstyle.co.uk

Article publié pour la première fois le 06/06/2013

A Classic Summer Look: Grey and White | A Suitable Wardrobe

See on Scoop.itTailored and Styled

“According to Esquire’s Encyclopedia of 20th Century Men’s Fashions, a gray jacket and white trousers like the ones worn by the man in the also-from-Esquire illustration were once the most popular warm weather casual clothing combination.”

Joseph Scherrer‘s insight:

I recently wrote about seeksucker as a classic summer look.

Here’s another look that I think is even better: light to mid grey fresco wool jacket paired with white linen pants and white bucs.

Check out the illustration.  If you get your grey-white ensemble gets anywhere close, you’ve just achieved summer style nirvana in my view.

We need more men to dress like this don’t you think?

By Joe Scherrer | Tailored and Styled Writer

See on asuitablewardrobe.dynend.com

Article publié pour la première fois le 07/05/2013

What Every Man Needs to Know About the Suit Silhouette | Iconically Rare

See on Scoop.itTailored and Styled

“When first hearing the phrase suit silhouette, it sounds a bit odd. By itself, the word silhouette brings to mind blackened outlines of corset-clad ladies from the Victorian era blotched onto starchy white paper.”

See on iconicallyrare.com

Joseph Scherrer‘s insight:

This is a true evergreen post from Sonia Glyn Nicholson of Iconically Rare.  She also writes and edits for Parisian Gentleman.

The piece is chock full of detail and photos and is written in her typically flowing and lyrical style which makes it enjoyable to read.

Here’s what you’ll discover about the suit silhouette:

1. The four elements of the silhouette

2. 13 design elements to customize the silhouette

3. The two main silhouette structures and 4 international sub-variations

4. How a skilled cutter can adjust for height to make you look your best

This one’s a keeper–save it to reference later.

By Joe Scherrer | Tailored and Styled

 

Article publié pour la première fois le 16/09/2013

Tutto Fatto A Mano Interview with Jeffery Diduch

See on Scoop.itTailored and Styled

As a regular reader of the Gentleman’s Gazette, chances are you have come across the posts of Jeffery Diduch – aka Jeffery D – who is the mastermind behind the blog about handmade clothes tuttofattoamano.blogspot.com No matter whether it is the dissection…

 

Joseph Scherrer‘s insight:

Lots of great tailoring insight from Jeffery Diduch of the “Tutto Fatto a Mano” blog.  Great rundown on the difference between bespoke and made-to-measure as well as Jeffery’s perspective on how a suit should fit.  Must read!

See on www.gentlemansgazette.com

Article publié pour la première fois le 07/03/2013