Friday Style Icon: President Harry S. Truman | Gentleman’s Gazette

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“Learn all about the suits of Harry S. Truman, his tailors,, style and the haberdashery of the 33rd president of the United States of America”

Joseph Scherrer‘s insight:

We featured Harry S. Truman’s shoe collection in a previous post.  Now, we’re elevated him to the Friday Style Icon. 

Before he was president Harry Truman ran a men’s store, so he knew how to dress. 

This piece by Sven Rafael Schneider of Gentleman’s Gazette is an excellent exposition of the “Buck Stops Here” president from Missouri.

www.gentlemansgazette.com

By Joe Scherrer | Tailored and Styled Writer

See on www.gentlemansgazette.com

Article publié pour la première fois le 17/05/2013

Own Your Style…According to Alan Flusser | Off the Cuff

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“Alan Flusser literally wrote the book on dressing well; more accurately, he wrote the books. When people ask me what they should read to help them learn about dressing well, I typically start off with, “anything by Flusser.”

Joseph Scherrer‘s insight:

True enough, Flusser’s books and absolutely first rate, and he does know a thing or two about style.

Flusser expresses concern about the lack of good guidance and role models when it comes to dressing with style rather than according to the whims of fashion.

He believes that owning your personal style is an active pursuit.  You have to be invested in it because it matters to you.

Just getting that far will put you in the upper tier of the style bell curve.

As a final thought, here’s a great quote from this article “Alan Flusser taught, and continues to teach me, that the act of developing and owning your personal style is something that ultimately affects every part of your life – and that’s a good thing.”

I wholeheartedly agree…

By Joe Scherrer | Tailored and Styled Writer

See on offthecuffdc.com

Article publié pour la première fois le 06/06/2013

The Trousers Guide, Part II | Men’s Flair

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See on www.mensflair.com

Joseph Scherrer‘s insight:

Just like buying a suit or sport coat, buying pants off-the-rack means  all in likelihood you’re sacrificing quality and fit for convenience.

Go to the store, check out the sales, buy them, throw them on, and you’re good to go. If you’re purchasing from the suit department in a store, you’ll be able to get the cuffed and hemmed. Aside from getting the waist adjusted, that’s as good as it gets as far as customization.

The other option is to get your pants custom made. In so doing, the fit, quality, longevity, and personalization will go up.

Initial cost may be slightly higher, but the over time the cost-per-wear will more than pay for itself because those department store pants will wear out faster because 1) they’re machine made and 2) the cloth is not the best quality. Plus they won’t look near as good.

In this second part of a 3-part series, Alexsandar Cvetkovic of Men’s Flair lays out some of the finer points trouser customization. When done thoughtfully, they made all the difference in terms of fit, look, and comfort.

The first point he brings up is the rise of the pants. Nowadays, the pants rise is very low–at or below the hips. This is fine if you’re young and slim, but as you fill out as the years go on, so does your waistline. In that case, a low rise simply won’t do. The ideal position for your pants are right at or around your natural waist, close to your navel.

Aside from comfort, a higher rise also lends better to the aesthetics of your suit. When your jacket is buttoned, you’ll get a nice transition between your jacket and pants. Instead of seeing your shirt, belt, and tie like you would with low rise pants.

The next point Alexsandar brings up is the silhouette of the trousers themselves. He makes the very valid point that most ready-made pants have way too much material in them. This extra material makes your lower torso look like a bag of donuts.

The exception is if you go for the skinny pants that are in vogue, but beware your physique and the capricious winds of fashion.

To get your silhouette correct, pay attention to the size and shape of your legs–and make sure your tailor does too. You want enough material for comfort, drape, and shape so that the pants legs falls seamlessly to your shoes.

Pants with the right silhouette will provide a nice shape to your lower torso, including your seat.

By Joe Scherrer | Tailored and Styled

 

 

See on www.mensflair.com

Article publié pour la première fois le 20/02/2014

How to pick a “Bespoke” Tailor | English Cut

How to pick a “Bespoke” Tailor | English Cut | Tailored and Styled | Scoop.it

http://www.englishcut.com/2014/04/11/how-to-pick-a-bespoke-tailor-2/

4 tips to select your tailor from Thomas Mahon, who himself is a bespoke tailor. 

If you’re going the custom route, don’t underestimate this decision. Even if you decide to use a tailor who travels from city-to-city or an online company, each tailor has a particular way to approach the process of measuring, pattern making, cutting, sewing, and fitting. Some are better at it than others, but more importantly you need to figure out what’s best for you.

Since you live in your clothes, make sure you trust the one who makes them for you.

Here are the four tips from Thomas Mahon:

1. Make sure if you are getting a bespoke garment, that it actually is.

2. Get to know the tailor’s cutter. They have a tremendous impact on how the garments actually fit you.

3. Check to make sure that it’s sewn by hand with minimal use of machines.

4. Don’t be allured by brands or labels. Most custom clothing from these companies are made in factories little hand stitching.

By Joe Scherrer | Tailored and Styled

Article publié pour la première fois le 14/04/2014

Tailor Talk #1: Step up your custom tailoring game–know your measurements

Tailor Talk #1--Measurements Chart

Let’s face it, most of us are fine with “good enough” when it comes to trying on and buying clothes, “I’m an XL” or “This jacket fits about right” or “The pants aren’t too long” is about the extent of it.

But for tailored clothing, we need to step up our games, and it’s really not that tough to do.  Once you have a list of your measurements, you can more easily engage in the necessary back-and-forth with your tailor as your measurements are taken.  It also serves as a good cross-check for measuring accuracy and adjustment.

All it takes is 10 minutes with a measuring tape.

Here’s a visual of some of the key measurements that need to be taken.  Note that the shape of your shoulders and your posture also need to be taken into account because the whole purpose of tailored clothing is to ensure everything fits and looks great.

Tailor Talk #1--Measurements Chart

Antonio Centano ‘s site “A Tailored Suit” has a very fine detailed measurement guide with pictoral illustrations of all 24 basic custom clothing measurements (this is not a sponsored or affiliate link…it just has great info!)

Neil is an absolute expert at this, give him a call or stop by the shop and he’ll be happy to walk you through the process.

Tailor Talk #2--Tailor Taking MeasurementsJoe Scherrer | Tailored and Styled Writer

Article publié pour la première fois le 27/01/2013