FREE Introductory Audio Lesson: "A Course in Classic Style"

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  • The Science Behind Dressing Well
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The Complete Guide to Suits: 57 Rules of Style – Details

See on Scoop.itTailored and Styled

Everything you need to know about suits, including what to look for when buying them, how to get them tailored, and the coats, shirts, ties, shoes, and watches to wear with them.

 

Joseph Scherrer‘s insight:

A big list of things to think about when it comes to suits.  Lots of good tips, and some that I don’t agree with like rule #21, “Tailoring your pants a little bit short will add distinctiveness to your simple look.”  As far as I’m concerned short pants are never correct.  The list has a fashion-forward tinge, but overall worth reading for Tailored and Styled followers.

See on www.details.com

Article publié pour la première fois le 25/03/2013

The Enduring Principles of Men’s Classic Style–Revised and Updated

In our walk through men’s sartorial history we’ve distilled several principles of style.  As we move forward in our analysis to the “Golden Age” of men’s classic dress, I think it’s fitting that to present the latest updated list of principles.

The ultimate goal of this process is to pull together an enduring set of principles that a man can use as a rock-solid and defensible guidepost for dressing well without any apologies.

Given the fact that there really are no guideposts out there anymore, I think this will be a valuable contribution to men so inclined to up their style quotient in a meaningful way and in a way that will withstand the capricious winds of fashion.

The previous list had 8 principles.  Given additional examination of men’s dress during the Victorian age, I’m adding two more: grounded individuality and selective simplicity.

1.  Modesty.  Modesty refers to clothing the body in a way that presents the self in a dignified manner.

2.  Decoration.  Dressing to accentuate a man’s inherent dignity and handsomeness.

3.  Symbolism.  Wearing clothes that communicate to others something of who we are and what we do.

Another very important principle arises from the above three and that is the ancient notion of the “Golden Mean.”  First articulated by the great Greek philosopher Aristotle, the Golden Mean is the desirable middle between two extremes, one of excess and the other of deficiency.  As applied to dressing well, the Golden Mean becomes our fourth principle:

4.  The Golden Mean.  Neither too much nor too little when it comes to dressing well.  For example, too much decoration or too little modesty introduces unnecessary and undesirable distortion into dress.

Along the way, we also uncovered several time-tested principles that arose out of the period of men’s style history known as “The Great Renunciation.”  These were:

5.  Harmony.  Integration of interior and exterior self so that the way one dresses communicates congruency in terms of your interior virtue and your most important social and professional activities.

6.  Classical Proportions.  First achieved in a profound way by Beau Brummell at the height the Enlightenment, classical proportion in dress is a crucial sub-principle of decoration.  It refers to Greek and Renaissance ideals of the human form as applied to men’s clothing.  In this sense, dressing with classical proportion strives to turns a man into a living Greek sculpture.

7.  Aesthetic Precision.  Again Brummell gets the credit for combining classical proportions with excellent fabrics, conservative colors, and high quality tailoring to arrive at an enduring standard of refined elegance.

8.  Refined Elegance.  The pinnacle of men’s classic style wherein a synergistic combination of all principles results in a harmony of balance, decoration, proportion, and precision that communicates the virtuous and individualistic best of what it means to be a man.

The walk through the Victorian period in the 19th century yielded two additional principles.

9.  Grounded Individuality.  By dressing with classic style you are saying that your individuality is not dictated by fashion; rather, you know who you are and what you stand for—and that doesn’t change.

10.  Selective Simplicity.  Selective simplicity enacts the principles of classic style with a certain ethic of “just enough” in terms of the clothing worn for particular occasions and in terms of the amounts and types of clothing owned.

We’ll continue to add to and polish these principles going forward, but it’s clear to me that we have a pretty good framework taking shape already.

By Joe Scherrer | Tailored and Styled Writer

Article publié pour la première fois le 22/05/2013

Take a Stand for Classic Style: Be a Dandy | A Suitable Wardrobe

See on Scoop.itTailored and Styled

The term dandy may have derived from the Scottish jack-a-dandy, referring to a man dressed up for his annual village fair. Whatever the source, it entered the English language early in the 19th century and has remained with us ever since.

Joseph Scherrer‘s insight:

The term “dandy” has evolved in meaning over the years to the point where today it means someone who is overly concerned about clothes and standing out in them.  The word even conjures up images of colorful, eccentric, even flamboyant clothing.  The meaning of dandy today has much more in common with the Macaroni, the Fop, and the Peacock.

For Beau Brummell, the quintessential dandy, being one meant an understated way of dressing that exemplified refined, indifferent elegance.  So in a modern sense, Brummell was the anti-dandy.

I also don’t mean “dumbing down” your style to the point of wearing a uniform as Will Boehlke discusses in his piece from A Suitable Wardrobe.  That is not thinking about how one dresses to the point of unoriginality.

However, neither do I mean “spicing up” the outfit as Will suggests.

The meaning of dandy I refer to here is dressing so well that the focus remains on the person wearing the clothes, not the clothes the person is wearing.

This is much more in line with the approach of the first dandies and best captures the intent of dressing with classic style.

By Joe Scherrer | Tailored and Styled Writer

See on asuitablewardrobe.dynend.com

Article publié pour la première fois le 24/05/2013

When to Wear Undershirts | Gentleman’s Gazette

See on Scoop.itTailored and Styled

Learn all you need to know about undershirts, their history, sleevelees, crew & v-neck styles, where to buy & how to make an invisible shirt.

Joseph Scherrer‘s insight:

Raphael Schneider provides his usual thorough and detailed analysis on the humble undershirt.

He first discusses the history of undergarments, which is fascinating in and of itself since men wore underclothes to protect their skin from the rougher outgarments and to keep those more expensive clothes cleaner since regular bathing had not yet come into vogue.

In the 1800’s one’s shirt was regarded as underwear.

However, by the early part of the 20th century, the military began to issue t-shirts which were worn underneath the uniform.  After World War II, the t-shirt became symbolic of rebellious youth (think Marlon Brando and James Dean).

He then provides a list of tips on types of t-shirts to buy and the pros and cons of wearing one.

Personally, I am a fan of wearing a t-shirt underneath the dress shirt, but there is no hard and fast guideline here.

By Joe Scherrer | Tailored and Styled

 

 

 

 

See on www.gentlemansgazette.com

Article publié pour la première fois le 29/08/2013

Necktie Also Have Seasons

See on Scoop.itTailored and Styled

I took out a silk shantung necktie earlier this week, looked at it longingly, and put it back. It is simply the wrong time of year for shantung, in my opinion. For neckties also have seasons.

 

Joseph Scherrer‘s insight:

Will gives a nice little rundown on how to move beyond just silk neckties.

See on asuitablewardrobe.dynend.com

Article publié pour la première fois le 23/02/2013