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Summer Jackets Have Patch Pockets | A Suitable Wardrobe

See on Scoop.itTailored and Styled

Proper summer jackets have patch pockets, meaning the pockets are sewn onto the outside of the jacket like the ones in the illustration. They may have flaps or they may be unflapped but there they are, for in a proper summer jacket there is nowhere to hang them on the inside of the coat.

Joseph Scherrer‘s insight:

Some good points on patch pockets made in this piece from Will Boehlke of A Suitable Wardrobe.

– Patch pockets reflect the informal character of summer

– Summer jackets should be unlined to enhance air flow so that the jacket is cooler to wear

– Patch pockets therefore need to be used on unlined jackets

Recently, I had a tan, half-lined jacket made up with patch pockets.  It is made of vintage worsted interwoven with khaki and grey threads.  It turned out great, and I really like the patch pockets.  They add just the right casual air to the jacket.

If you’re interested in a jacket with patch pockets, here’s an excellent link to Antonio Centeno’s “Real Men Real Style” blog.  It provides a lot of practical advice on how and when to wear jackets with patch pockets.

By Joe Scherrer | Tailored and Styled Writer

See on asuitablewardrobe.dynend.com

Article publié pour la première fois le 22/07/2013

Advanced Men’s Wardrobe Building–3 Examples | Die Workwear

There must be hundreds, if not thousands, of lists at this point on how to build a basic wardrobe.

See on dieworkwear.com

Joseph Scherrer‘s insight:

This is an insightful post of what one might include in an advanced wardrobe.

The examples provided below–save for the Biddle example which is slightly more achievable–would take years for the average man of decent means to achieve.  And that’s if he very focused and patient with the process.

Nonetheless it does give an idea of what the art of the possible might be.

You might even pick up a couple of ideas for your next purchases.

Michael Alden is the founder of London Lounge and really knows his stuff.  He is singlehandedly responsible for reviving vintage-style fabrics from the Golden Age of men’s style.  I’m a member of the London Lounge cloth club and I can tell you from first-hand experience the quality is absolutely fantastic.  He has very refined sense of style and a killer wardrobe to boot.

Will Boehlke posts every day over at A Suitable Wardrobe and he runs his own online haberdashery.  He is a self-professed “serial-bespoker.”  I’ll have a post that goes into that in more detail next week.

I think the King (literally before he abdicated) of advanced wardrobe was the Duke of Windsor who is lionized even today everywhere for his whimsical, trend-setting style.  He had a massive wardrobe absolutely worthy of royalty.

By Joe Scherrer | Tailored and Styled Writer

 

Article publié pour la première fois le 01/08/2013

Classic Style in Rio: 5 Initial Observations

7-9-13 Tailored and Styled Blog Post--Leblon Neighborhood

Well, my wife and I settled in our apartment in Rio de Janeiro for the next couple of months. We were fortunate to find a reasonably priced furnished apartment in the very fine neighborhood of Leblon.

7-9-13 Tailored and Styled Blog Post--Leblon Beach

Leblon is at the south end of the strand of famous beaches that line the Atlantic side of the city of Rio. It is mostly residential and the people are generally affluent. It’s also a lot more quiet than other neighborhoods which I like.

7-9-13 Tailored and Styled Blog Post--Leblon Neighborhood

It’s really great to be here again.  The people of Brazil and of Rio in particular–they are called “Cariocas”–are exceptionally friendly.  I’ve been coming here for the better part of 15 years and that’s one thing that I always appreciate.

At any rate, I’ve spent the last week and a half getting myself oriented, figuring out the bus routes, writing, and enrolling in an intensive Portuguese course.

From the standpoint of classic style, I’ve been observing the work-a-day professionals of Rio and what they’re wearing. Recall that it’s winter in the Southern hemisphere, with temperatures hovering in the mid-70’s during the day. So you’d expect to see more suits and ties this time of year, especially downtown where Rio’s main commercial district lies.

Here’s what I’ve noticed so far:

1. Black and dark blue are the most popular colors for suits (or “terno” in Portuguese).  Honestly, I don’t get the black suits, since the climate is so warm.  The photo below is typical of what you’ll see. 7-9-13 Tailored and Styled Blog Post--Rio Typical Suits

2. Most suits appear to be off-the-rack, but then again I haven’t gone into much depth on this. yet.  There is an extensive indigenous clothing industry in Brazil, and you can get a reasonable quality machine-made suit for a fairly decent price ($200 or so).

3. Dress shirts are mostly blue and white.  From time to time you’ll see a stripe or a contrast collar and cuffs, but nothing over-the-top or extravagant.  I’ve even seen black suits with white shirts and black ties, but I’ve learned that this ensemble is usually worn by security guards of upscale apartment buildings or offices.

4. Black shoes and dark socks are it.  I’ve not seen anyone wearing brown dress shoes here.  Also, the toes of the shoes seem somewhat more squared off that one might see in the States or in Europe.  Like with suits, Brazil has a massive shoe industry.  In fact, they export a ton of them, especially women’s shoes.  It’s easy to find a pair of serviceable dress shoes without dropping a ton of dineiro.  You see a lot of dress shoes like the ones in the photo below:

7-9-13 Tailored and Styled Blog Post--Rio Typical Shoes

5. Ties are worn, but seem to be removed quickly after work, when in a taxi or on a bus, or when at the local bar. The dominant colors seem to be blue and dark blue with an occasional yellow or pink thrown in.

My assessment at this point is that wearing a suit and tie is more of a utilitarian expectation for professionals and that if given the choice, both suit and tie would be dumped in a heartbeat in favor of loosely fitting cotton or linen dress shirts with rolled up sleeves, linen pants, and slip-on shoes.  I can see the point:  it’s hot here and plus it’s Rio man!

All this said, my perceptions and opinions may change after I have a chance to absorb the scene some more and actually talk to real, live Brazilians about what they think.

Also, you can still find old-fashioned tailors in the city who will sew your suits and shirts by hand as well as shoemakers who will stitch you a pair of custom-made shoes.  This is high on my agenda this time around.

More to follow in the coming days and weeks…

By Joe Scherrer | Tailored and Styled Writer

Article publié pour la première fois le 09/07/2013

Choosing the Right Shirt Collar | Parisian Gentleman

See on Scoop.itTailored and Styled


The collar of a shirt may seem like it is a small part of  the overall look of an ensemble, and choosing a shirt collar may feel like a simple choice based on personal taste.


Joseph Scherrer‘s insight:

Yet another excellent article from Parisian Gentleman, this time on how to choose the best shirt collar for you.

 

Highly recommend saving this one…

 

By Joe Scherrer | Tailored and Styled Writer


See on parisiangentleman.co.uk

Article publié pour la première fois le 27/06/2013

Custom Tailoring & Shoemaking in Rio de Janeiro

8-9-13-Tailored-and-Styled-Blog-Post-Cafezinho.jpg

We’re heading downtown Rio de Janeiro today to link up with a good friend of Raphael Schneider.  Raphael, as many of you know, runs the highly regarded Gentleman’s Gazette, a comprehensive men’s lifestyle blog.

At any rate, we plan to meet over a cafezinho (a small, very strong Brazilian coffee).

8-9-13 Tailored and Styled Blog Post--Cafezinho

After which we’ll tour some of the tailoring and shoemaking shops that dot the central zone of Rio.  This area is the main commercial district of the city which explains why there is a concentration of these type of shops in the vicinity.

8-9-13 Tailored and Styled Blog Post--Rio Downtown

Since my wife had previously promised a birthday gift of a custom-made jacket or shoes, guess what I’ll be doing while I’m there.  :>)

Neither Raphael or I are aware of anyone else who has written about the Brazilian custom tailoring scene, so we’re both excited to document it.

When the articles are ready, they’ll be posted on Gentleman’s Gazette.  I’ll let you know when that happens.

In the meantime consider this a promotional teaser of sorts.

Have a great weekend!

By Joe Scherrer | Tailored and Styled Writer

Article publié pour la première fois le 09/08/2013