The Timeless Principles of Men’s Classic Style–Revised and Updated

In our walk through men’s sartorial history we’ve distilled several principles of style.  As we move forward in our analysis to the “Golden Age” of men’s classic dress, I think it’s fitting that to present the latest updated list of principles.

The ultimate goal of this process is to pull together an enduring set of principles that a man can use as a rock-solid and defensible guidepost for dressing well without any apologies.

Given the fact that there really are no guideposts out there anymore, I think this will be a valuable contribution to men so inclined to up their style quotient in a meaningful way and in a way that will withstand the capricious winds of fashion.

The previous list had 8 principles.  Given additional examination of men’s dress during the Victorian age, I’m adding two more: grounded individuality and selective simplicity.

1.  Modesty.  Modesty refers to clothing the body in a way that presents the self in a dignified manner.

2.  Decoration.  Dressing to accentuate a man’s inherent dignity and handsomeness.

3.  Symbolism.  Wearing clothes that communicate to others something of who we are and what we do.

Another very important principle arises from the above three and that is the ancient notion of the “Golden Mean.”  First articulated by the great Greek philosopher Aristotle, the Golden Mean is the desirable middle between two extremes, one of excess and the other of deficiency.  As applied to dressing well, the Golden Mean becomes our fourth principle:

4.  The Golden Mean.  Neither too much nor too little when it comes to dressing well.  For example, too much decoration or too little modesty introduces unnecessary and undesirable distortion into dress.

Along the way, we also uncovered several time-tested principles that arose out of the period of men’s style history known as “The Great Renunciation.”  These were:

5.  Harmony.  Integration of interior and exterior self so that the way one dresses communicates congruency in terms of your interior virtue and your most important social and professional activities.

6.  Classical Proportions.  First achieved in a profound way by Beau Brummell at the height the Enlightenment, classical proportion in dress is a crucial sub-principle of decoration.  It refers to Greek and Renaissance ideals of the human form as applied to men’s clothing.  In this sense, dressing with classical proportion strives to turns a man into a living Greek sculpture.

7.  Aesthetic Precision.  Again Brummell gets the credit for combining classical proportions with excellent fabrics, conservative colors, and high quality tailoring to arrive at an enduring standard of refined elegance.

8.  Refined Elegance.  The pinnacle of men’s classic style wherein a synergistic combination of all principles results in a harmony of balance, decoration, proportion, and precision that communicates the virtuous and individualistic best of what it means to be a man.

The walk through the Victorian period in the 19th century yielded two additional principles.

9.  Grounded Individuality.  By dressing with classic style you are saying that your individuality is not dictated by fashion; rather, you know who you are and what you stand for—and that doesn’t change.

10.  Selective Simplicity.  Selective simplicity enacts the principles of classic style with a certain ethic of “just enough” in terms of the clothing worn for particular occasions and in terms of the amounts and types of clothing owned.

We’ll continue to add to and polish these principles going forward, but it’s clear to me that we have a pretty good framework taking shape already.

By Joe Scherrer | Tailored and Styled Writer

How a Suit Begins | The Rake

See on Scoop.itTailored and Styled

“The exquisite craftsmanship championed all over these pages would not be possible without superlative raw material — wool, in the case of a high-end suit. the rake journeys to a far-flung corner of Tasmania, Australia, to visit Zegna’s own suppliers, who prove as dedicated to their craft as any urban artisan.”

Joseph Scherrer‘s insight:

This fascinating article by Nick Scott of The Rake details the very beginning of the supply chain for the Zegna fashion empire.

Zegna actually controls special herds of sheep in Australia that are used for the production of the wool that it uses in its garments.  The company is involved in the selection of the animals for the raw materials, the dyeing and weaving of the fabric, the construction of the clothing, marketing and sales, and everything in between.

The detail involved in shearing the Zenga sheep is utterly amazing, “We have to do everything absolutely perfectly, in order that the product we put in the bales is the very best it can be,” says the Tasmanian herd manager. The shearers follow a precise cutting method that keeps the fleece in one piece.  “You won’t see better shearers and shed hands than these anywhere–they’re really at the top of their game.”

This is good old fashioned vertical integration at its finest.  The fact that it works so well for Zegna makes it hard to argue with success.

And, it an important way, it’s good to know that there are places where quality and craftsmanship still matter.

By Joe Scherrer | Tailored and Styled Writer

See on therakeonline.com

How a Suit Collar Should Fit | Parisian Gentleman

See on Scoop.itTailored and Styled

by Sonya Glyn Nicholson, PG Senior Editor. It’s surprising to notice that so many people with exquisite taste fail to notice the importance of a good collar fit with no “collar gap”.

Joseph Scherrer‘s insight:

You want your jacket to fit well right?  One of the aspects of fit that is often overlooked is how the collar lays around the neck.

One of the disadvantages of off-the-rack is that you get what you get.  And more often than not, you get a collar that gaps.  Once you notice it, you won’t be satisfied with anything less that the right fit.

Sonya Glyn Nicholson gives an excellent rundown of what this looks like and how to avoid it to include a section of “the physics of collar fit.”

Enjoy this very educational piece.

By Joe Scherrer | Tailored and Styled Writer

See on parisiangentleman.co.uk

Friday Style Icon: President Harry S. Truman | Gentleman’s Gazette

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“Learn all about the suits of Harry S. Truman, his tailors,, style and the haberdashery of the 33rd president of the United States of America”

Joseph Scherrer‘s insight:

We featured Harry S. Truman’s shoe collection in a previous post.  Now, we’re elevated him to the Friday Style Icon. 

Before he was president Harry Truman ran a men’s store, so he knew how to dress. 

This piece by Sven Rafael Schneider of Gentleman’s Gazette is an excellent exposition of the “Buck Stops Here” president from Missouri.

www.gentlemansgazette.com

By Joe Scherrer | Tailored and Styled Writer

See on www.gentlemansgazette.com

The The Amazing Shoe Collection of Harry S. Truman | Gentleman’s Gazette

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“In the past we discussed Harry S.Truman’s suits and today, in collaboration with the Harry S Truman NHS National Park Service, we’d like to present an exclusive gallery of photos of his eclectic shoe collection”

Joseph Scherrer‘s insight:

Before Harry S. Truman ascended to the presidency, he owned a haberdashery in Independence, Missouri (my home state).  Few modern presidents dressed better. 

He’s turned out pretty well in the photo above with a light grey double breasted suit, Panama hat, and Allen Edmonds spectator shoes.  Pretty snazzy.

Gentlemen’s Gazette offers this fascinating piece about President Truman’s shoe wardrobe.  It’s a classic, but eclectic collection.  I especially like the grey fabric and black leather two-tone dress shoes and the multi-color crepe sole beach shoes.

Enjoy the read, it’s a good one.

By Joe Scherrer | Tailored and Styled Writer

See on www.gentlemansgazette.com