Selecting the Right Wingtip Design for Your Foot | Iconically Rare

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Joseph Scherrer‘s insight:

Wingtips are enjoying a well-deserved resurgence today.

“Brogues”–as the Scots would call them–have been a dapper part of the classic style portfolio ever since the gentry brought them from the hunting fields to town.

This nifty piece by Sonia Glyn Nicholson offers a way to figure out which of the dizzying types of wingtips will look best on your feet.

(Hint: it has to do with the size of the “W” on the toe of the shoe)

By Joe Scherrer | Tailored and Styled
See on iconicallyrare.com

Article publié pour la première fois le 01/02/2014

The All but Forgotten Rules for Dressing with Style

7-3-13-Tailored-and-Styled-Blog-Post-Anthony-Eden-with-Gloves_thumb.jpg

Up until World War I, there were accepted rules for proper dress in a particular situation. Etiquette books such as Chesterfield’s Complete Rules of Etiquette, pamphlets, and newspaper updates were used to make sure one didn’t run afoul of these norms.

For instance, here are a few examples:

- “In the evening, though only in the bosom of your own family, wear only black, and be as scrupulous to put on a dress coat as if you expected visitors.”

- “To be ‘undressed’ is to be dressed for work and ordinary occupations” while to be “dressed” is to show respect for society by wearing the garments “which the said society pronounces as suitable to particular occasions.”

- “Always wear gloves on the street, in church & other formal occasions, except when eating or drinking. White or cream colored gloves for evening and gray or other darker colors for day wear.”

Here’s a great illustration by Fellows of the always dapper Anthony Eden in his trademark Homburg hat with cane and white gloves.  Since the gloves are white and he is wearing a rather informally patterned suit, we must assume that he is headed to an early evening event.

7-3-13 Tailored and Styled Blog Post--Anthony Eden with Gloves

After World War I, this consensus began to break down, especially during the explosion of creativity in the 20′s and 30′ known as the Golden Age of mens’ classic style. But what was best about those rules was encoded in the form and function of the suit itself and passed down by the word and example of well-dressed fathers and traditional social conventions.

The great youth rebellion and cultural upheaval of the 60′s instigated yet further erosion and hastened the demise of whatever was left of “the rules.”

It was shagadelic baby!

7-3-13 Tailored and Styled Blog Post--Austin Powers

What we are left with today is only a vague sense of what a man ought to wear and when.  But the reasons for that sense is now lost in the mists of time.

How short is our collective historical memory.

Here’s what the UK’s authoritative Debrett’s New Guide to Etiquette and Modern Manners has to say about all this:

“Indecision about what to wear is one of the most visible manifestations of contemporary social confusion and insecurity.  The elevation of comfort above all other considerations, the flawed belief that informality equals conviviality, and downright laziness have resulted in a contradictory and illogical dress sense.”

The only remaining bastions of “rules” are, for example, the white tie balls of Vienna where precision of dress is practically a requirement to attend or the blue and grey suits and foulard ties expected in the British banking industry.

7-3-13 Tailored and Styled Blog Post--Viennese White Tie Ball

All that said, the fact is that when you dress in accordance with classic guidelines, you are tapping into a lineage that dates back more than 250 years. As such, you are GUARANTEED to register as a man of style in the minds of those who encounter you. This is because this manner of dressing has been refined over many decades to put a man in the best possible light.

Not only that, the endemic casualness that characterizes our society today makes it even easier to stand out as someone with a sense of style.

So yes, today all we can say is that there are guidelines not rules, but knowing and applying those guidelines remain a sure path to style.

7-3-13 Tailored and Styled Blog Post--Ralph Lauren Polo Purple Label Blue Double Breasted Suit

By Joe Scherrer | Tailored and Styled Writer

Article publié pour la première fois le 03/07/2013

Why Men’s Style History Matters to You

Slim Fit Mix 'N Match

I don’t know about you, but it’s easy to get confused about what to wear especially given the high velocity of fashion change in our times.  Style has become so democratized that it’s difficult for the aspiring professional to find enduring reference points for dressing well.

Whereas in the past, you knew what to wear in an aesthetically pleasing way for a given event, for work, and for play, that is no longer no longer true today.  Everything related to so-called “rules for dressing” has been deconstructed, scrambled, mixed up, and even distorted beyond recognition.

Thom Brown Mint Green "Munsters" Suit

Thom Brown Mint Green Plaid “Munsters” Suit

And it doesn’t help that change is engineered into the fashion system itself which—if you buy into it—also drives your wardrobe costs up.

So, what’s a guy to do?

The point of this blog is to help you develop your own “philosophy of style” using classic principles.  Part and parcel of this approach involves taking a stand against relentless fashion change.   Indeed, there is some irony in that classic men’s style, by virtue of its enduring nature, is now a statement of fashion rebellion.  But just the opposite was the case up until the 1960’s.

In effect, we’re saying, “I dress with classic taste, and here’s why.”

Cary Grant Mid-Grey 3-Button Prince of Wales Suit

Cary Grant’s grey 3-button suit
used in North by Northwest

Fortunately, it’s possible to trace a distinct continuity of men’s style that goes back several hundred years.  From a clothing standpoint, this continuity is embodied in the suit.  From a grooming standpoint, it’s short hair and a clean shaven face.  From a physical standpoint it’s being fit.  And most importantly, from a moral standpoint it’s being a man of strong character virtues.

Now I don’t mean to say that classic men’s style has remained absolutely unchanged over those years (it hasn’t), but I do say that the foundation of classic men’s style remains intact, even if it has been buffeted by the vagaries of fashion, taste, and relativism.

In the upcoming series of posts, I’ll take you on a short walk through history to discover that continuity of men’s classic dressing and see if we can draw out any enduring lessons to apply to our philosophy of style.

And during that walk, here’s the question I want you to ask yourself:

Do YOU stand for classic style?

By Joe Scherrer | Tailored and Styled Writer

Article publié pour la première fois le 23/02/2013

Dressing the Edwardian Man | Edwardian Promenade

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During the Edwardian period up until World War I, “traditional articles of gentleman’s clothing changed very little; the only concession to the passing of time were tiny details…”

 

Joseph Scherrer‘s insight:

The immediate run-up to the burst of creative evolution in men’s dress during the golden age in the 20′s and 30′s was characterized by a highly refined and structured approach to style.  Every man of means knew what to wear, when to wear it, and how to present himself.

This article from Edwardian Promenade serves as an excellent complement to my article on the Victorian period and wraps up this particular phase of our journey through men’s sartorial history.

Dark colors, mainly black and grey, dominated.  Color came into play with the vest, the sweater and the tie.

That said, casual pursuits like “hunting, yachting, cricket, polo and others” drove the cross-pollination of sportswear into mainstream dress.

As I’ve proposed in previous pieces, this trend of casualization has reached its zenith today.

Also, a certain Prince of Wales had more than a little bit to do with the transition from Edwardian style to something more exuberant.

However, what hasn’t changed since then is that the suit remains the benchmark of dressing well.

And the irony is that because the style bar is set so low that it is easier than ever to dress well.

By Joe Scherrer | Tailored and Styled Writer

 

See on edwardianpromenade.com

Article publié pour la première fois le 25/06/2013

Tailor Talk #1: Step up your custom tailoring game–know your measurements

Tailor Talk #1--Measurements Chart

Let’s face it, most of us are fine with “good enough” when it comes to trying on and buying clothes, “I’m an XL” or “This jacket fits about right” or “The pants aren’t too long” is about the extent of it.

But for tailored clothing, we need to step up our games, and it’s really not that tough to do.  Once you have a list of your measurements, you can more easily engage in the necessary back-and-forth with your tailor as your measurements are taken.  It also serves as a good cross-check for measuring accuracy and adjustment.

All it takes is 10 minutes with a measuring tape.

Here’s a visual of some of the key measurements that need to be taken.  Note that the shape of your shoulders and your posture also need to be taken into account because the whole purpose of tailored clothing is to ensure everything fits and looks great.

Tailor Talk #1--Measurements Chart

Antonio Centano ‘s site “A Tailored Suit” has a very fine detailed measurement guide with pictoral illustrations of all 24 basic custom clothing measurements (this is not a sponsored or affiliate link…it just has great info!)

Neil is an absolute expert at this, give him a call or stop by the shop and he’ll be happy to walk you through the process.

Tailor Talk #2--Tailor Taking MeasurementsJoe Scherrer | Tailored and Styled Writer

Article publié pour la première fois le 27/01/2013