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Classic Style for a 7 Footer | Gentleman’s Gazette

See on Scoop.itTailored and Styled

Style is something often associated with clothing, though it is so much more than that: manners, tone, mindset and the way you live your life are all a defining parts of your (life)style.

Joseph Scherrer‘s insight:

You have to sympathize with outsize or undersize men.  It is extremely difficult to find clothes that fit, much less cater to a refined sense of classic style.  Well, Herbert Stricker, aka Grimod, is over 7 feet tall and has managed to put together quite a wardrobe that follows our classic style principles quite nicely. Sven Rafael Schneider of Gentleman’s Gazette packs this post with plenty of descriptive photos.  Some of the looks I do not care for, but when all is said and done, Herr Stricker knocks it out of the park.

 

See on www.gentlemansgazette.com

Article publié pour la première fois le 17/04/2013

Dressing the Edwardian Man | Edwardian Promenade

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During the Edwardian period up until World War I, “traditional articles of gentleman’s clothing changed very little; the only concession to the passing of time were tiny details…”

 

Joseph Scherrer‘s insight:

The immediate run-up to the burst of creative evolution in men’s dress during the golden age in the 20’s and 30’s was characterized by a highly refined and structured approach to style.  Every man of means knew what to wear, when to wear it, and how to present himself.

This article from Edwardian Promenade serves as an excellent complement to my article on the Victorian period and wraps up this particular phase of our journey through men’s sartorial history.

Dark colors, mainly black and grey, dominated.  Color came into play with the vest, the sweater and the tie.

That said, casual pursuits like “hunting, yachting, cricket, polo and others” drove the cross-pollination of sportswear into mainstream dress.

As I’ve proposed in previous pieces, this trend of casualization has reached its zenith today.

Also, a certain Prince of Wales had more than a little bit to do with the transition from Edwardian style to something more exuberant.

However, what hasn’t changed since then is that the suit remains the benchmark of dressing well.

And the irony is that because the style bar is set so low that it is easier than ever to dress well.

By Joe Scherrer | Tailored and Styled Writer

 

See on edwardianpromenade.com

Article publié pour la première fois le 25/06/2013

Not-So-Great Gatsby Tuxedos | Black Tie Guide

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I finally got a chance to see The Great Gatsby and while I loved the movie I was disappointed by the inaccuracy of the men’s evening wear.  Normally I would chalk this up to sloppy research but…

Joseph Scherrer‘s insight:

This post from Peter Marshall over at the Black Tie Guide systematically dissects how the Tuxedos in The Great Gatsby were off the mark compared to actual styles of the time.

The point to be made is that if you’re going to do a period film, at least get the period wardrobe correct.

You could extend this to modern black tie style today although the norms for this type of dress are more fluid than they were in the 20’s.

At any rate, if you stick with a classically constructed Tuxedo suit and associated accoutrements, you’ll never go wrong…and you’ll look great.

By Joe Scherrer | Tailored and Styled Writer

See on blog.blacktieguide.com

Article publié pour la première fois le 12/06/2013

Seven Things to Look for in a Custom Suit | Parisian Gentleman

See on Scoop.itTailored and Styled

Something happens when we first step into the oasis of handmade suiting. If you have commissioned a handmade suit before, then you remember the lake of fabric at the tailor’s house, and being asked to choose just one.

Joseph Scherrer‘s insight:

Another nifty article from Sonia Glyn Nicholson of Parisian Gentleman.  It gives an excellent rundown of things you need to look for when commissioning a custom suit.

I especially like the first photo that shows how men’s fashion magazines get a suit to look right.  You definitely don’t want to have to do that with your suit!

This piece is an excellent adjunct to our recent 2-part series with bespoke clothier Jon Green (part 1, part 2).

The seven elements are supported by very descriptive photos and shots of “good” and “bad” examples.  The elements are:

1.  Correct size.

2.  No collar gap

3.  Clean shoulder line

4.  Proper button tension

5.  Clean back

6.  Proper sleeve and jacket length

7.  Details such as button holes, lapels, and pockets.

The post provides additional detail to add to your understanding.

Very well done!

By Joe Scherrer | Tailored and Styled

 

 

See on parisiangentleman.co.uk

Article publié pour la première fois le 04/09/2013

How a Suit Begins | The Rake

See on Scoop.itTailored and Styled

“The exquisite craftsmanship championed all over these pages would not be possible without superlative raw material — wool, in the case of a high-end suit. the rake journeys to a far-flung corner of Tasmania, Australia, to visit Zegna’s own suppliers, who prove as dedicated to their craft as any urban artisan.”

Joseph Scherrer‘s insight:

This fascinating article by Nick Scott of The Rake details the very beginning of the supply chain for the Zegna fashion empire.

Zegna actually controls special herds of sheep in Australia that are used for the production of the wool that it uses in its garments.  The company is involved in the selection of the animals for the raw materials, the dyeing and weaving of the fabric, the construction of the clothing, marketing and sales, and everything in between.

The detail involved in shearing the Zenga sheep is utterly amazing, “We have to do everything absolutely perfectly, in order that the product we put in the bales is the very best it can be,” says the Tasmanian herd manager. The shearers follow a precise cutting method that keeps the fleece in one piece.  “You won’t see better shearers and shed hands than these anywhere–they’re really at the top of their game.”

This is good old fashioned vertical integration at its finest.  The fact that it works so well for Zegna makes it hard to argue with success.

And, it an important way, it’s good to know that there are places where quality and craftsmanship still matter.

By Joe Scherrer | Tailored and Styled Writer

See on therakeonline.com

Article publié pour la première fois le 21/05/2013