Minimalism Exemplified | Put This On

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The Man Who Believed in Simplicity

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Joseph Scherrer‘s insight:

This piece from Put This On describes the style and wardrobe of Jean-Michel Frank, a renowned French interior designer of the 20th century.

Frank specialized in minimalism based on simplicity. He was quoted as saying, “Throw out and keep throwing. Elegance means elimination.”

When it came to his wardrobe, he certainly kept it simple: he had 40 of the exact same gray wool flannel suits.

The suits were double breasted with four on two buttoning and clean, straight lines. The cut complimented his slim physique and resulted in a simple elegance–which I’m sure was Frank’s intent.

There is much to admire about such a simple approach. I’m not saying you should buy 40 identical suits. But if you select that absolute best quality, in timeless styles, colors, fabrics, and patterns that are made by expert tailors to fit you, you don’t need a massive wardrobe.

Less can indeed be more when it comes to classic style.

By Joe Scherrer | Tailored and Styled

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Article publié pour la première fois le 26/03/2014

How to pick a “Bespoke” Tailor | English Cut

How to pick a “Bespoke” Tailor | English Cut | Tailored and Styled |

4 tips to select your tailor from Thomas Mahon, who himself is a bespoke tailor. 

If you’re going the custom route, don’t underestimate this decision. Even if you decide to use a tailor who travels from city-to-city or an online company, each tailor has a particular way to approach the process of measuring, pattern making, cutting, sewing, and fitting. Some are better at it than others, but more importantly you need to figure out what’s best for you.

Since you live in your clothes, make sure you trust the one who makes them for you.

Here are the four tips from Thomas Mahon:

1. Make sure if you are getting a bespoke garment, that it actually is.

2. Get to know the tailor’s cutter. They have a tremendous impact on how the garments actually fit you.

3. Check to make sure that it’s sewn by hand with minimal use of machines.

4. Don’t be allured by brands or labels. Most custom clothing from these companies are made in factories little hand stitching.

By Joe Scherrer | Tailored and Styled

Article publié pour la première fois le 14/04/2014

The Challenge of Bespoke | Off the Cuff

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Jon Green is a celebrated New York-based bespoke clothier well-known to readers of Forbes, The Financial Times, and American Express’ ‘Departures’ magazine. His loyal and exclusive customers who typically operate in a rarefied air of luxury and quality, can demand, and receive, the best.

In this guest column, he provides a thoughtful and educational retort to last year’s New York Times article on bespoke tailoring.

Joseph Scherrer‘s insight:

Very interesting post on the challenges of making a bespoke business work.  The amount of handwork, apprenticeship, and time involved makes such a business hard to scale…but the wonders of a bespoke suit make it so worth the expense and wait involved for those who go this route.  How awesome it is to have a suit made to fit you precisely with all the myriad of custom details that go along with it.  In a very real way, a bespoke suit is a sartorial work of art.

…also, the pictures of bespoke Jon Green suits at the bottom of the post make me salivate!

By Joe Scherrer | Tailored and Styled Writer

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Article publié pour la première fois le 22/04/2013

Classic Style in Rio: 5 Initial Observations

7-9-13 Tailored and Styled Blog Post--Leblon Neighborhood

Well, my wife and I settled in our apartment in Rio de Janeiro for the next couple of months. We were fortunate to find a reasonably priced furnished apartment in the very fine neighborhood of Leblon.

7-9-13 Tailored and Styled Blog Post--Leblon Beach

Leblon is at the south end of the strand of famous beaches that line the Atlantic side of the city of Rio. It is mostly residential and the people are generally affluent. It’s also a lot more quiet than other neighborhoods which I like.

7-9-13 Tailored and Styled Blog Post--Leblon Neighborhood

It’s really great to be here again.  The people of Brazil and of Rio in particular–they are called “Cariocas”–are exceptionally friendly.  I’ve been coming here for the better part of 15 years and that’s one thing that I always appreciate.

At any rate, I’ve spent the last week and a half getting myself oriented, figuring out the bus routes, writing, and enrolling in an intensive Portuguese course.

From the standpoint of classic style, I’ve been observing the work-a-day professionals of Rio and what they’re wearing. Recall that it’s winter in the Southern hemisphere, with temperatures hovering in the mid-70’s during the day. So you’d expect to see more suits and ties this time of year, especially downtown where Rio’s main commercial district lies.

Here’s what I’ve noticed so far:

1. Black and dark blue are the most popular colors for suits (or “terno” in Portuguese).  Honestly, I don’t get the black suits, since the climate is so warm.  The photo below is typical of what you’ll see. 7-9-13 Tailored and Styled Blog Post--Rio Typical Suits

2. Most suits appear to be off-the-rack, but then again I haven’t gone into much depth on this. yet.  There is an extensive indigenous clothing industry in Brazil, and you can get a reasonable quality machine-made suit for a fairly decent price ($200 or so).

3. Dress shirts are mostly blue and white.  From time to time you’ll see a stripe or a contrast collar and cuffs, but nothing over-the-top or extravagant.  I’ve even seen black suits with white shirts and black ties, but I’ve learned that this ensemble is usually worn by security guards of upscale apartment buildings or offices.

4. Black shoes and dark socks are it.  I’ve not seen anyone wearing brown dress shoes here.  Also, the toes of the shoes seem somewhat more squared off that one might see in the States or in Europe.  Like with suits, Brazil has a massive shoe industry.  In fact, they export a ton of them, especially women’s shoes.  It’s easy to find a pair of serviceable dress shoes without dropping a ton of dineiro.  You see a lot of dress shoes like the ones in the photo below:

7-9-13 Tailored and Styled Blog Post--Rio Typical Shoes

5. Ties are worn, but seem to be removed quickly after work, when in a taxi or on a bus, or when at the local bar. The dominant colors seem to be blue and dark blue with an occasional yellow or pink thrown in.

My assessment at this point is that wearing a suit and tie is more of a utilitarian expectation for professionals and that if given the choice, both suit and tie would be dumped in a heartbeat in favor of loosely fitting cotton or linen dress shirts with rolled up sleeves, linen pants, and slip-on shoes.  I can see the point:  it’s hot here and plus it’s Rio man!

All this said, my perceptions and opinions may change after I have a chance to absorb the scene some more and actually talk to real, live Brazilians about what they think.

Also, you can still find old-fashioned tailors in the city who will sew your suits and shirts by hand as well as shoemakers who will stitch you a pair of custom-made shoes.  This is high on my agenda this time around.

More to follow in the coming days and weeks…

By Joe Scherrer | Tailored and Styled Writer

Article publié pour la première fois le 09/07/2013

Friday Style Quote | Tailored and Styled

“A man should look as if he had bought his clothes with intelligence, put them on with care, and then forgotten all about them.”  – Hardy Amies

Article publié pour la première fois le 21/06/2013